My voyage aboard a Crystal Cruise ship concluded with a melancholy morning. I climbed aboard the 740-passenger-capacity ship named “Serenity” in San Juan a week earlier knowing full-well the luxury life at sea would finish in Fort Lauderdale. But, suitcase packed, as I bid farewell to the friends I made and gave gratuities to the crew, I cooked up a dreamy scheme to stowaway!
After all, weren’t their more sunrises to take in from the top of the aft of the ship after a pre-dawn visit to the Aurora Spa’s windowed gym? I wanted to see more syrupy sunsets from my suite balcony after exploring eclectic St. Barths; basking on the beaches of the British Virgin Islands; shopping in St. John’s English Harbor; or even swimming in the ship’s pool with music by the DJs the “Flair Duo:” Teatime meant a sun-kissed orange blend and other flavors by Julius Meinl with truffled and macaroons consumed to piano tunes.
Perhaps another fresh lobster dinner at Waterside? Possibly more pasta or gourmet gnocchi at Osteria d’Ovidio? (The Waygu Bolognese with homemade pappardelle and 101-months Parmesan cheese at Beefbar, founded in Monte-Carlo, was best, in my opinion.) And I found room to plunder the Scoops gelato bar for a cup of stracciatella each afternoon. Umi Uma was essentially the world famous Nobu restaurant at sea featuring the likes of yellow tail tartare with caviar or sashimi with jalapeno or Nobu-style black cod.
Crystal Cruises are celebrated for cuisine.
“The food is unparalleled. Crystal Cruises restaurants rise to the level of Michelin-starred cuisine,” said passenger Craig Smith, who owns Miami-based travel company Source Journeys. “I have met so many loyal passengers who say they are ‘Crystalized’ and have taken 50 or more cruises with them. Crystal’s level of entertainment on this intimate ship is amazing.”
Before and after dinner, Englishman Neal Fullerton tickled the ivories and cracked jokes in the Avenue Saloon. I mourned for more evenings of entertainment in the Galaxy Lounge where vivacious vocalist, American Lauren Heavner, captured the crowd. Dazzling dancers like Nicole Bonvini, from Wales, circled the stage with the likes of the elegant Russian Nadia Matiunina dramatically slicing the strings of her violin with bow.
Crystal Cruise’s Serenity escaping to the sea in St. Thomas.
As Smith suggested, some passengers, such as Englishwoman Fiona Baldwin, booked consecutive cruises so she could stay on the ship for another week. But I wondered what an actual life at sea might be like?
Scott Peterson, the American hotel manager aboard the Serenity, has worked at sea more than 40 years.
“It started as an adventure out of college when I was hired to sail on a ship out of New York at Christmastime putting up decorations – and then sail back taking down decorations. My father always told me I should do ‘semester at sea’ studying, but I ended up spending a lifetime at sea,” Peterson revealed. He works three months on the ship – and then has three months at home – before returning to the sea.
“Six months-a-year might sound like a lot of time off, but out here I am working seven days a week and am on-call, 24 hours a day.”
I asked Peterson which period goes faster – three months at sea or at home?
“You’d probably have to ask my wife that,” he joked. “Onboard, I go to the rail every day and never tire of enjoying the beauty. My favorite view is off the stern where you see the wake of the ship churning up the water. The other night, the sun was setting and the full moon was rising off the starboard side. The wonder of nature is remarkable.”
Crystal Cruise Director Raphael Derkson is a French-Canadian musician who, in his youth, played with the Montreal Symphony.
“An agency looking for a trumpeter to play on ship called on the day of the biggest snow storm in the history of Montreal. I could not find my car to dig it out and drive to a gig that was going to pay me $50. So instead, I got on a plane in the morning, flew to the Caribbean, and never went back. Now the only ice I see is in my drinks!”
The structure onboard suits the many musicians, singers, dancers, and comedians that Derkson, who also performs with Crystal’s show band, manages.
“Imagine the struggles that get in the way if you are an artist trying to make it in a big city: paying rent, having a day job waiting tables, etc. Aboard the ship all those concerns are taken care of. Our musicians, singers and dancers have a roof over their heads and great food, so they can concentrate on performing.”
It seemed every crew member aboard Crystal’s Serenity was a good-humored performer of sorts. Filipino Ed Palillo knew I liked a little booze with my 7 a.m. Marketplace buffet breakfast. “If I have to, I will get a hammer to break open the bar for you,” he joked. Instead, lead barkeeper Afzal Kahn coughed up the key. (Catholic Mass followed for me at 8 a.m. in the theater.)
When faced with ordering off the menu, though, at Waterside, I struggled to choose…until server Thony Vasquez suggested I avoid the decision and just order both the eggs benedict and the crab omelet with poached Dungeness crab, golden corn, green peas, aged cheddar.
My butler Neeraj and suite attendants Geraldine and Aiaru feigned fright when coming across a plastic, spring-loaded crab I had secretly placed in their paths for a laugh.
On a snorkeling shore excursion off Jost Van Dyke, I asked the local boat captain and guide, who said his name was “Elvis,” if he had ever lost a passenger? “Not yet – and I hope never to,” Elvis answered seriously before continuing with a smile: “…because it would be a lot of paperwork. They would be asking me questions for five years!”
Contact Michael Patrick Shiels at MShiels@aol.com His new book: Travel Tattler – Not So Torrid Tales, may be purchased via Amazon.com Hear his radio talk show on WJIM AM 1240 in Lansing weekdays from 9 am – noon.
This article originally appeared on Lansing State Journal: Laughs and luxury during a life at sea aboard Crystal Cruises