I don’t like to fly, which makes my choice of profession ironic. And all the more ironic that I chose to fly to Saba, a five-square-mile volcanic rock in the Caribbean that’s only accessible by boat — or, more terrifyingly, a 16-seater plane that lands on what is officially the shortest commercial runway in the world.
As our tiny Winair prop plane soared over the sparkling blue waters between St. Maarten and Saba, the mountain began to rise like a green pyramid from the sea. From my front-row perch directly behind the pilot, I had a clear view of the approaching airstrip: a narrow ribbon of pavement perched on a rocky outcrop with cliffs on either side and the sea waiting eagerly at both ends. I couldn’t tear my eyes away. Terrified? Of course. But also exhilarated. What keeps me getting on plane after plane is the promise of being able to experience someplace new.
The storybook streets of Windwardside, Saba’s main village, showcase the island’s signature white-and-green architecture and laid-back charm.
A Caribbean Island Like No Other
Forget what you think you know about Caribbean travel. Saba (pronounced SAY-bah) isn’t your typical toes-in-the-sand, beach-bar-and-bikini destination. In fact, there aren’t really any beaches here at all. Instead, this dramatic island — often dubbed the “Unspoiled Queen” of the Caribbean — is more Hawaii than Aruba, all jungle-covered peaks, volcanic rock, and switchback roads clinging to cliffs. You don’t come to Saba to lay out. You come to climb.
Saba is actually the summit of a dormant volcano, Mount Scenery, which rises more than 2,800 feet above sea level. Within this little emerald nugget are five distinct microclimates, ranging from arid lowlands with cacti to a misty, cloud-covered elfin forest at the top. You’ll hike through dense foliage, past giant tree ferns and cascading vines, often with no one else around. And on an island this tiny — just five square miles — it feels like magic that there are more than 20 trails to choose from.
Saba’s volcanic peaks and lush rainforest offer some of the best hiking in the Caribbean—no beaches required.
A Place Where Everyone Knows Your Name
Life on Saba is nothing if not intimate. The entire population hovers around 1,900, spread between just four tiny villages: The Bottom, Windwardside, St. John’s, and Hell’s Gate. Everyone waves to one another. Shopkeepers know your order before you say it. And on Saba, it’s understood that no single bar hogs the spotlight every night — instead, the nightly happy hour rotates between watering holes in Windwardside to keep things fair and friendly. Mondays might be at Tropics Cafe, Thursdays are at Scout’s Place, and Fridays might be at Brigadoon. It’s a small, thoughtful detail that perfectly illustrates the island’s collective spirit.
There’s a rhythm to life here that feels wildly refreshing in today’s hyper-connected world. Saba isn’t trying to “keep up.” Its content exactly as it is.
Juliana’s Hotel is one of only four hotels on the island, offering cozy cottage stays, sweeping mountain views, and the warmest local hospitality in Saba.
Four Hotels, Count ‘Em
When I say this place is untouched, I mean it. There are only four hotels on the entire island, all locally owned and tucked into the hillsides. No high-rises, no beach resorts, no mega pools. Just cozy rooms, views that make your heart full, and the kind of peace that can only come from a place that truly wants to stay small.
The architecture is as consistent as the friendliness: whitewashed cottages with green shutters and red roofs, a uniform aesthetic that dates back to Dutch colonial times and remains one of the many reasons this island is so photogenic.
The Mas Cohones Trail rewards hikers with sweeping views over Windwardside, a colorful village tucked into Saba’s volcanic landscape.
Jungle Trails and Cloud Forests
If you’re the kind of traveler who lives for this sound of crunching gravel underfoot, the smell of damp leaves, and the thrill of altitude gains, then Saba is your fantasy island. Hiking is one of the best things to do in Saba, and the Mount Scenery Trail is the pièce de résistance. This stone staircase leads you 1,064 steps through a changing landscape, culminating in a mystical cloud forest where moss carpets the trees.
For a slightly less vertical experience, the Mas Cohones trail winds through the rainforest with sweeping sea views and plenty of moments for meditative pause.
Well’s Bay is one of Saba’s most scenic spots, known for its dramatic cliffs, crystal-clear waters, and some of the best snorkeling on the island.
Under the Sea, It’s Just As Dreamy
While you won’t find powdery beaches here, what lies beneath the water is pure paradise. Saba is home to a protected marine park, making it one of the best places for diving and snorkeling in the Caribbean. Coral reefs, lava tunnels, and sheer drop-offs attract everyone from beginner snorkelers to advanced divers. Expect to see reef sharks, turtles, colorful sponges, and even the occasional whale shark cruising past.
Because the island limits development and maintains strict conservation laws, its underwater world is as untouched as its trails.
Hidden in the rainforest, Rendezvous Restaurant offers a magical open-air dining experience under the stars—Saba’s most unforgettable jungle dinner.
Dinner in the Dark
One of Saba’s most enchanting dining experiences is tucked deep in the rainforest — Rendezvous, a dreamy, open-air restaurant illuminated by glowing string lights. Getting there feels part of the adventure: a drive (or hike, if you’re ambitious) up into the hills, where the roads narrow, street lights disappear, and stars begin to dominate the sky.
Then, just when you’re wondering if you’ve taken a wrong turn, the trees open up to reveal a glowing little oasis — tables scattered beneath the palms and ficus trees, candles flickering, and a soundtrack of crickets and falling drops of water. The menu rotates with local ingredients, featuring fish, garden veggies, and Caribbean-inspired comfort food.
Colibri Café is Saba’s stylish go-to for post-hike beers and craft cocktails, blending jungle vibes with a cozy, contemporary Caribbean setting.
The Cutest Apres-Hike in the Caribbean
After a long day of exploring, head straight to Colibri Cafe, a new bar and cafe in Windwardside that’s become the go-to post-hike hangout. With a lush garden setting, a craft beer selection, and jungle views, it’s the kind of spot where one drink turns into three.
Landing on Saba is an adventure in itself—this hair-raising approach to the world’s shortest commercial runway is as unforgettable as the island that awaits.
How to Get to Saba
The easiest way to get to Saba is to fly from St. Maarten on Winair — a 12-minute flight that’s basically a scenic thrill ride. Alternatively, the ferry from St. Maarten takes about 90 minutes. Either way, once you arrive, you’ll understand why it’s worth the journey.
Saba is a bucket list destination for off-the-beaten-path travel, perfect for eco-tourists, hikers, divers, and anyone burned out on beach chairs and buffet lines. It’s a place where you’ll feel truly disconnected from the world, but supremely connected to this little community in a short amount of time. Because that’s he beauty of Saba: It reminds us what Caribbean travel can be when it’s about community, nature, and discovery. And honestly, even for a white-knuckle flyer like me, that’s worth the ride.