Have you ever had a trip that felt more like a fever dream than reality? I have—and it involved a hawk named James, a moody wine cellar with 1,800 bottles, and a singalong with strangers while a pianist played flawless renditions of Beyoncé and The Beatles without a single sheet of music.
It all took place at Sheen Falls Lodge, a five-star hotel that feels more like an invitation into Irish heritage than just a place to sleep. Set on a waterfall-draped estate just outside the town of Kenmare in County Kerry, the historic lodge delivers the kind of Irish hospitality that wraps around you like a wool sweater. I’m not surprised that a handful of families have made it their annual tradition to spend Christmas here for more than 30 years.
What sets Sheen Falls Lodge apart isn’t just its fairytale-esque setting—though the gentle waterfalls, wildflowers, and mist-shrouded mountains, where rainbows appeared almost daily during my stay, certainly don’t hurt. It’s the way the property infuses Irish heritage into the guest experience without ever feeling performative or inauthentic.
Trying falconry in Ireland
Writer Joni Sweet holds a hawk named James during a falconry experience at Sheen Falls Lodge in Ireland.
I came to Sheen Falls to experience one of its quintessential experiences: falconry. As a wildlife lover, I was drawn to the chance to connect with birds of prey—especially in a place where the tradition stretches back more than a thousand years. Falconry has been a longstanding hobby in Ireland, once practiced by kings and noble families who trained hawks to hunt. That legacy adds a layer of meaning to what I already knew would be a magnificent encounter.
One drizzly fall morning, I stood in a field a short walk away from the lodge with a leather glove on my hand as James, a 4-year-old Harris’s hawk, launched into the air and returned with calm precision. He was interested in one thing: the raw chicken guts at the tip of my gloved hand. He landed with more weight than I expected and enjoyed a well-deserved bite as I stood in awe, staring at the intelligent, beautiful bird a literal arm’s length distance away from my face.
His handler, Liam Regan, has been working with birds of prey since he was 16 years old. Sheen Falls now partners with his company, Falconry Kerry, to give guests a hands-on introduction to falconry in Ireland. Watching James soar, then return to land on my arm, the shoulders and backs of my travel companions, and even the umbrella I was carrying, never ceased to be mesmerizing. I could have watched him in flight the rest of the day.
But James was just one of several birds I had the chance to interact with at Sheen Falls. Later, Regan led us to a tree-shaded trail in the wood to introduce us to two other birds. The first was Archie, a 6-month-old African spotted eagle-owl, who emerged from his cage screeching. He flew back and forth between the perch and our gloved arms, doing a distinctive dance with his head in celebration of each treat he received that you couldn’t help but imitate. He was a hoot (couldn’t resist the chance to make that pun!).
Then, there was my favorite of the flock: Liath, a 5-year-old great grey owl. She was more shy than the others, letting out a few soft squawks as she observed us from a nearby perch. With her oversized oval face and expressive, glowing eyes, she looked like something out of an illustrated folklore book—equal parts majestic and mysterious. As Regan rustled a bag of treats, Liath spread her wings wide, showing off a striking wingspan speckled with the subtle gray and silver markings that help her blend in with tree trunks. She was as soft as a kitten when she let us pet her. Being up close with Liath, Archie, and James felt like a rare kind of privilege that I left me in a profound sense of wonder and respect as I wandered back toward the lodge.
Beyond birds: The magic of Sheen Falls Lodge
While I came to Sheen Falls for the falconry, it was far from the only experience at the property that was designed to give guests meaningful, memory-making moments. There was also the genealogy workshop led by Rachel Foley of Ancestors from Ireland. Before we even arrived, she had researched the surnames of each guest, offering us individual histories that traced the origins of our names and whether we might have ancestral ties to Ireland.
In a country where family lineage runs deep—and many people can recite their heritage back several generations—genealogy is more than just a hobby. It offers a living connection to place, history, and identity. And for members of the Irish diaspora, who now outnumber the population of Ireland itself, tracing your roots can feel like reclaiming a piece of yourself that’s been waiting to be found. It inspired me to dig deeper into my own family history once I returned home.
Wine cellar at Sheen Falls Lodge
One evening, I found myself descending into the lodge’s moody wine cellar—a stone-walled chamber lined with 1,800 bottles from around the world—for a private dinner pulled from the hotel’s fine dining menu. Candlelight flickered against the walls as course after course arrived, each one more thoughtful and beautifully plated than the last. It felt like stumbling into a secret, elegant hideaway.
Then, there was the music. You can’t go to Ireland without encountering it—music is everywhere. At Sheen Falls Lodge, it shows up not in a staged performance, but in the most intimate and joyful of ways. Most nights, guests gather in the lounge, where Jim, who’s been playing piano at the lodge since it opened in 1991, sits at the keys and plays whatever people request. You won’t find sheet music on his stand. Somehow Jim knows every song from memory, from traditional Irish folk to Taylor Swift, and can play it on demand. It’s remarkable.
One night, a spontaneous singalong broke out. It felt like something out of a movie, but according to the staff, that kind of night is just part of the rhythm at Sheen Falls. I shouldn’t have been surprised, though. Part of the magic of this property is its dedication to fostering connection.
The grounds at Sheen Falls Lodge feel like a fairytale.
After the birds, the ballads, and the genealogy lesson that felt like connecting to my ancestors, I made my way back to my suite. I didn’t bother turning on the TV. I just poured myself a glass of wine, kicked off my shoes, and got cozy in the armchair by the window. It felt like just the right setting to enjoy some introspective time and let the experiences of being in this place settle in me.
I don’t know if I’ll ever make it back to Sheen Falls Lodge. But I know I’ll carry it with me for a long time. It’s the rare kind of place that imprints itself on you without trying to.
Getting to Sheen Falls Lodge
Sheen Falls Lodge is located in Kenmare, County Kerry, Ireland, approximately 2.5 hours from the Shannon airport. Aer Lingus offers daily flights between Shannon and New York City and Boston. If you have the budget, it’s worth splurging on its business class offering, which includes lie-flat seats, a full meal, and access to a super cozy lounge at JFK Airport. Plus, when heading home, you can clear U.S. Customs at the Shannon Airport, which makes your return journey faster and more convenient.